Folk festival
Each June on an island in the Amazon, two rival groups, Boi Garantido and Boi Caprichoso, retell the legend of the ox through music, dance and spectacular floats.
Photo: CulturaGovBr / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0
Last weekend of June, over three nights
Parintins, on Tupinambarana island in the Amazon river, Amazonas state, in the purpose-built Bumbódromo.
Watch Garantido and Caprichoso compete with music, dance and giant floats, and cheer for one side in the arena.
Toada: the powerful song style of the Boi-Bumbá
The Parintins Folklore Festival takes place in the city of Parintins, on Tupinambarana island in the Amazon river, in the state of Amazonas. It grew from the bumba-meu-boi tradition, a folk drama found in many parts of northern and northeastern Brazil, which tells of Pai Francisco, a farm worker who kills his master's prized ox to satisfy the craving of his pregnant wife, Mãe Catirina. The ox is brought back to life, and the community celebrates. In Parintins, the story became a spectacular contest between two rival groups, or bois.
Over three nights, usually on the last weekend of June, Boi Garantido, represented by red and a heart, and Boi Caprichoso, represented by blue and a star, take turns performing in the Bumbódromo, a purpose-built arena. Judges score each group on music, dance, costumes and allegorical floats, many of which draw on the region's Indigenous cultures, myths and riverside life. Characters such as the cunhã-poranga, the pajé and the amo do boi play key roles. The rivalry is affectionate but serious: supporters often avoid wearing the other side's colour during the festival. Boi traditions are celebrated differently elsewhere, notably the bumba-meu-boi of Maranhão, recognised by UNESCO.
The music is the toada, powerful songs performed with large percussion sections, and each boi presents new toadas every year. Supporters in the stands, known as the galera, sing, dance and move in choreographed waves as part of their group's performance. Visitors can try regional dishes such as river fish, tacacá soup and açaí, which in the Amazon is often eaten unsweetened alongside fish and manioc flour. The ox itself, built from fabric over a frame and danced by a performer underneath, is the heart of the celebration.
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Parintins is reached by boat or plane, and accommodation fills months ahead, so plan early. In the arena, sit with one side's supporters and respect their colour: wearing red among Caprichoso fans, or blue among Garantido fans, can cause awkward moments. Asking locals which boi they support is a friendly conversation starter. The performances honour Indigenous cultures, so admire them without treating Indigenous dress as fancy dress.
Parintins is on an island in the Amazon river with no road connection to Manaus. Visitors usually arrive by boat or by plane: a regular riverboat from Manaus takes about 18 hours downstream (and around a day back), an express boat about 8 hours, and a flight about an hour. Book transport and accommodation well in advance.
A panel of judges scores Garantido and Caprichoso against set criteria over three nights, and the winner is announced after the final night. Both groups have won many titles over the years.
They share the story of the ox, but the traditions differ. Bumba-meu-boi in Maranhão is performed by many groups at neighbourhood festivals, while Parintins is a staged contest between two bois.
