Festival
Known as Karneval, Fasching or Fastnacht depending on the region, Germany’s “fifth season” ends in a burst of parades, costumes, music and cheers of “Helau!” and “Alaaf!” before Lent begins.
Photo: Achim Hube / Unsplash
From 11 November, peaking in the days before Ash Wednesday in February or March
Strongest in the Rhineland, with the biggest parades in Cologne, Mainz and Düsseldorf, and the Swabian-Alemannic Fastnacht in the south-west.
Watch a Rosenmontag parade, catch sweets, wear a costume and join in the local carnival cry.
Helau! or Alaaf!: the traditional carnival cheers
Karneval, Fasching and Fastnacht are regional names for the celebrations before the forty days of Lent, which begin on Ash Wednesday. Historians link the word Fastnacht to fasting: it was the last chance for feasting and merriment before the fast. In the Rhineland the season is called the “fifth season” and is traditionally opened at 11 minutes past 11 on 11 November. It pauses for Advent and Christmas and returns in earnest after 6 January.
The street carnival peaks in the days between Weiberfastnacht, the Thursday before Ash Wednesday, and Ash Wednesday itself. The highlight is Rosenmontag, Rose Monday, with huge parades of decorated floats in Cologne, Mainz and Düsseldorf, and in many smaller towns. Riders on the floats throw sweets to the crowds, and many people in the streets wear costumes. In Cologne the parade is led by the Dreigestirn, a trio of prince, peasant and maiden. Carnival clubs hold evenings of songs and humorous speeches, the Büttenreden, which often poke fun at those in power. Each region has its own cry: “Alaaf” is traditional in Cologne, while “Helau” is heard in Düsseldorf, Mainz and many other places. In the south-west, the Swabian-Alemannic Fastnacht has a different character, with its own masks and old local traditions. On Ash Wednesday the festivities end, and in some places carnival groups meet for a fish meal. Not everyone in Germany celebrates, and customs vary widely by region.
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Parade routes are very crowded, so arrive early, keep belongings close and plan for public transport. Bring a bag for the sweets thrown from the floats. A costume is welcome but not required.
They are regional names for the same pre-Lent season. Karneval is used especially in the Rhineland, Fasching in Bavaria, Saxony and Austria, and Fastnacht in the south-west.
The Monday before Ash Wednesday, usually in February or early March, depending on the date of Easter.
“Alaaf” in Cologne and much of the Rhineland, and “Helau” in Düsseldorf, Mainz and many other places.
